Clothing And Footwear in France

Euromonitor International's Clothing And Footwear in France market report offers a comprehensive guide to the size and shape of the market at a national level. It provides the latest retail sales data, allowing you to identify the sectors driving growth. It identifies the leading companies, the leading brands and offers strategic analysis of key factors influencing the market - be they new product developments, packaging innovations, economic/lifestyle influences, distribution or pricing issues. Forecasts illustrate how the market is set to change.

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Executive summary

2008 and the first effects of the crisis

After positive results in 2007 with combined clothing and footwear sales rising by 1.5% in volume and 2% in value, 2008 was a difficult year. The economic crisis impacted negatively the sales of most consumer goods including clothing and footwear which decreased by 2.6% in volume and 3.3% in value. The reduction of household purchasing power and its influence on their morale affected sales of all clothing and footwear subsectors as consumers preferred to invest in other goods such as mobile phones, internet or IT equipment. The importance of clothing and footwear in total household consumption expenditure has progressively decreased over the past 10 years and the deterioration of the economic environment should amplify this trend.

The increase of sales and promotions

The importance of special offers and sales on total household clothing and footwear purchases has been increasing progressively. Sales and promotions accounted for one-third of total spending in 2008 versus 29% in 2007 and 20% in 1998.

Consumers are increasingly looking for cheap prices both in physical stores and through online shopping and this tendency should keep on intensifying in the future due to negative economic prospects. According to a TNS Worldpanel survey carried out in June 2008, 57% of households stated that they would wait for sales to buy clothing articles which represents a rise from 53% in 2007. Special offers and sales periods are currently the only growth engine of the clothing industry and this phenomenon is also visible in the luxury sector. This trend could have negative consequences on manufacturers and retailer margins as well as on their brand image.

Towards a more ethical fashion

The fashion industry remains one of the most exploitative in the world, both to people and the environment. Poor working conditions, low wages and environmental damage are widespread. Hence, consumers are increasingly interested in contributing to creating a more sustainable future for fashion and they now gladly invest in ethical and organic products. Ethical fashion is currently the fair trade business highest growth subsector among non-food segments and sales are expected to continue rising in the coming years. The ethical fashion products’ universe is increasing and diversifying itself and many young designers are very creative in this segment.

A concentrated distribution

Clothing and footwear distribution tends to become more and more concentrated. In the clothing sector, the market share of specialised chains keeps growing to the detriment of independents, hypermarkets/supermarkets and home shopping traditional brands. In the footwear sector, distribution is led by two main groups, Vivarte and Eram, which are both very dynamic. A group like Vivarte is present in both segments and continued to grow in 2007 and 2008 through the acquisition of new brands. Nowadays, there are fewer frontiers between clothing and footwear since consumers have a global fashion budget. As a result, new concepts are emerging and clothing retailers are selling increasing numbers of footwear articles.

Back to growth from 2010 onwards

2009 is going to be a difficult year for both clothing and footwear as combined sales are forecasted to decline by 2.1% in volume and 2.7% in value. However, from 2010 onwards, the situation is expected to improve and in the 2013 horizon total value sales are estimated to reach €34.907 million. In the clothing sector, the growth rate will be relatively limited: 2.0% in volume and 2.1% in value between 2008 and 2013. Tomorrow’s consumers may reorient their purchases towards higher-quality products that cost more but last longer (the “slow-fashion” trend). The coexistence of two rhythms, “fast-fashion” and “slow-fashion”, could become more common.

In the footwear sector, between 2008 and 2013, total volumes are expected to increase by 11.2% and value sales to drop by 3.6% under the pressure of purchase power constraints and the growth of imports from Asia.

The impact of the crisis on clothing and footwear sales

Trend

French consumer confidence is deteriorating as the global financial crisis is hitting the economy. October 2008 saw the government acknowledge that the country was in recession – two consecutive quarters of negative real GDP growth. GDP contracted by 1.2% in 2008Q4, taking annual growth down to -1%, its worst performance since 1992. Confidence is declining as a result of the global economic slowdown, rising job losses and a realisation that the downturn will be more severe than initially believed.

Current impact

The current crisis is contributing to lower spending, widespread dissatisfaction and negative business sentiment which directly impacts the retail sector. Clothing and footwear sales fell by 2.6% in volume and 3.3% in value in 2008.

The importance of clothing and footwear in total household consumption expenditure has been decreasing progressively over the past 10 years and the deterioration of the economic environment has amplified this trend. In fact, consumers prefer to invest in other goods such as mobile phones, internet or IT equipment.

Most retailers and manufacturers were impacted by the crisis in 2008. Large companies such as H&M and Zara put emphasis on prices and reduced their margins in order to limit their sales decrease. However, the consequences were more direct for smaller companies that were already weak. For instance, Morgan was put into receivership and brands such as Promod and Naf-Naf were reported to have high debts at the end of the year.

Outlook

Western Europe is among the regions worst hit by the 2008 global financial crisis, with almost all major economies facing recession in 2008-2009. Unemployment, consumption and exports are set to deteriorate. Inflation is easing to the benefit of consumers as the world economy slows, yet the risk of deflation (a decrease in price levels) is a growing concern. A positive sign has been governments' ability to coordinate monetary and fiscal policies in response to the crisis, despite the region's political and economic diversity. Western Europe is expected to return to growth in 2010.

GDP contracted by 1.2% in 2008Q4, taking annual growth down to -1%, its worst performance since 1992. And with recent indicators confirming that the economy is deteriorating rapidly, we expect further falls in GDP over the next few quarters. For the short-term period, the European Commission forecasts a real GDP growth of 1.8% in 2009 and -0.4% in 2010 in France.

Consumer spending held up better than expected in 2008Q4, rising by 0.5% on the quarter. However, household confidence remains at low levels and fell in February 2009 after improving in January. And despite lower inflation, consumer spending is likely to weaken over the next few quarters, as the unemployment rate is expected to rise well above 10% by 2010.

In fact, independent economists expect French unemployment to cross the threshold of 10% at the beginning of 2010, up from its current rate of just over 8.2%. French youth are the hardest hit, with unemployment among the under-25 age group hitting 21.2% at the end of last year. But Employment Minister Laurent Wauquiez at the weekend said France was showing more resilience than its European neighbours, especially Spain which is on track to hit 20% unemployment this year.

Future impact

In 2009, clothing and footwear manufacturers and retailers will increasingly experience the full impact of the downturn in the French economy. Consumer confidence in France fell sharply in late 2008 and early 2009 as a result of the global economic slowdown, rising job losses and a realisation that the downturn will be more severe than initially believed. This sentiment is contributing to lower spending, popular dissatisfaction and negative business sentiment, which threatens more business failures and job losses throughout 2009. More frugal spending may benefit budget retailers but will generally be damaging for most retailers and manufacturers

Clothing and footwear sales are expected to decrease both in value and volume in 2009. According to a November 2008 survey carried out by TNS Sofres (a French leader in market studies and opinion polls), two- thirds of French consumers declared they would reduce or modify their purchasing behaviour on clothing articles in the coming months due to the economic crisis (20% will reduce their purchases, 23% will buy cheaper products, 11% will postpone their purchases and wait for better times, 9% will simply give up buying new clothes).

The French Government expects the economy to shrink by 2.%5 in 2009 but is banking on a turnaround in 2010. From 2010 onwards, France is expected to return to growth and clothing and footwear volume sales are expected to follow this trend and to increase.

The growing share of sales and promotions

Trend

More French consumers are now looking for the next opportunity to shop at discounted prices all year round.

According to a TNS Worldpanel survey carried out in June 2008, 57% of households stated that they would wait for special offers or sales to buy clothing articles compared to 53% in 2007. The proportion even reached two- thirds of households with children. Last Christmas, more than one-third of people interviewed declared that they were planning to wait for winter sales to purchase their presents.

Special offers and sales periods are currently the only growth engine of the clothing industry and this phenomenon is also visible in the luxury sector.

Current impact

The importance of special offers and sales has been increasing progressively and accounted for 32% of total clothing sales in 2008 and 29% in 2007 according to the Institut Français de la Mode (IFM). This trend was visible for all categories. Indeed, special offers and sales represented 28% of women’s outwear, 29% of men’s outwear, 32% of children’s outwear and even 25% of infant clothing sales. In 1999, the percentage of clothing sales made under special offers or sales periods was only 21% for women’s outwear and 20% for men’s outwear.

Clothing sales are increasingly concentrated, with two months generating close to a quarter of total sales. In fact, in 2007, January accounted for 13% and December for 11% of total purchases. This phenomenon is especially marked for men’s outwear, for small articles (35% of total turnover realized in December and January) and underwear (27%).

When there were only two sales period per year, the fashion shopper could not imagine waiting several months before wearing new clothing articles. However, recently the opportunities to buy at reduced prices have multiplied. In fact, discount stores such as Gifi or la Foirefouille, factory outlets (Marques Avenue, Quai des Marques) and “private sales” for privileged customers have become more common. In addition, three years ago, the internet emerged as a new distribution channel and many well-known brands sell an increasing part of their surplus via internet sites such as Vente-privée.com.

Outlook

With the economic crisis, we can estimate that the current trends will amplify. Consumers will tend to increasingly wait for special offers and sales to make their purchases. Retailers will be likely to offer very high discounts as it was the case during the 2008 winter sales with discounts reaching up to 70% and even 90% on certain internet sites right from the beginning of the sales period. As a consequence, clothing and footwear consumption prices decreased by 7.2% in January 2009 (INSEE figures).

Beyond that, a lot of specialist internet sites such as Ventes Privées or Spartoo (footwear) are very successful and will continue to grow.

According to the economy modernisation law voted last summer, retailers can now organise two additional weeks of “floating sales” during the year. Department stores are targeting the following weeks: 22nd to 28th of April and 4th to 10th of November. Specialised chains opted for the following ones: 25th to 31rst of March and the same one in autumn. Independent stores are not expected to follow this trend. Fast fashion retailers are expected to take more risks since they know they will have the possibility to destock. For the others, these two additional weeks of sales will represent an additional opportunity to boost sales in times of economic uncertainty.

Future Impact

The current trend towards an increase of special offers and sales may have negative consequences for common brands such as Kiabi or Zara since it may reduce their margins and have an impact on their brand image. However, it may even be more dangerous for luxury brands which have critical stock that they need to sell off. Before, sales were happening in separate places. Now, they more often take place directly in the stores; discounts are also higher and cover a wider range of products. As a consequence, important purchases will tend to be postponed.

In order to find a way out, manufacturers will have to either innovate or limit surplus. Internet has become the new kingdom for sales and promotions with 79% of online purchases made at discounted prices. 21% of the people interviewed decided to use the internet for the first day of the 2008 winter sales. We can therefore forecast that the development of online sales will push the trend towards increased sales and promotions.

The potential of sportswear

Trend

Sport is now an integral part of the French lifestyle: it is the eighth most popular leisure activity and more than 54% of the population practice a sport on a regular basis. The most popular activities are walking, followed by swimming, biking, jogging, skiing and playing bowls, football and tennis.

French are very polyvalent and usually play 4 different sports on average. They are mostly looking to spend time with family and friends through their activities. For instance, 51% of the people who go swimming do it with their family while only 13% adhere to a club and only 2.5% practice it at a competition level.

There are many reasons that can explain this success. The practice of sports is a good way to enjoy oneself and socialise. However, before everything, sports is a good way to exercise and stay healthy and fit and the French are increasingly concerned about wellness, health and physical appearance.

Current impact

As a result, we can notice a shift towards a more informal type of clothing and footwear (casual and sportswear especially). The most popular clothes are comfortable, easy-to-use and easy-to-clean. Sportswear style shoes represent a total market of approximately 24.8 million pairs per year. Sales of sportswear shoes have increased in the first two quarters of 2008 but they declined in the third one due to the effects of the economic crisis.

High quality and design are important factors when selling sportswear in France as consumers are becoming increasingly aware of body support during exercise.

Retail distribution is dominated by specialist shops (60% of the market), which include integrated shops (Decathlon, Go Sport, Courir), associated shops (Intersport) and independent shops. Hypermarkets are the next distribution channel and they are followed by supermarkets, department stores (Citadium) and mail order.

Outlook

People are increasingly concerned about health and weight control and the practice of sports to achieve this. As a result, more people will be encouraged to practise sports. Demographics may also be a positive factor for the development of sportswear fashion. In fact, the number of seniors as a proportion of the overall population will increase and they will try to stay healthy as long as possible. They will represent a perfect target for sportswear brands since they have a lot of leisure time and a high purchasing power.

Finally, the emergence of new sports such as Pilates may also create new needs and demands in the sector.

Future impact

We can forecast that the demand for sportswear products will continue rising in the coming years. The multiple uses of sportswear articles and the creativity of designers are expected to boost sales in the medium to long-term.

Sportswear is no longer exclusively designed to be worn for sport but also as fashion wear although there has been a rising interest in fitness and an increase in leisure time. Women are a very interesting target market. Indeed, the number of women practising sports keeps increasing and they are often more interested by the brand than by the product in itself. Retailers will make increasing efforts to seduce them by offering more fashion products and several different collections a year, thus boosting the whole market.

American and German sports brands are expected to continue leading the market but smaller players such as Airness could also develop themselves as a niche segment.

Towards a more ethical fashion

Trend

The French are becoming more interested in fair trade. According to a study carried out by Ipsos, citizens are now consuming in a different way. They have new values and their purchases are linked with a political dimension. As a result, products labelled as fair trade are now found in many sectors ranging from food products to tourism and textile. The turnover of fair trade products was multiplied by three between 2004 and 2007 to reach €241 million in 2007.

Fair trade products are widely distributed. In recent years, we saw the multiplication of e-commerce websites although they only account for 3% of the market. There are also 300 specialised selling points (Alter Mundi, Artisans du Monde, Biocoop...). However, 93% of these products are still bought in the 10,000 large and medium retailers.

Although eight people out of 10 say that they have heard of fair trade, only 44% declare that they have bought fair trade products. Consumers of fair trade products usually have a higher socio-economic profile even though the target is expanding. We can also underline that a lot of new start-ups were created in this sector in the past year which shows the industry dynamism.

Current impact

According to a study carried out by the international solidarity and cooperation association and TNS Secodip panels, the fair trade business turnover increased by 37% overall between 2004 and 2007, reaching €41 million.

Sales of non-food products grew more rapidly than those of food products, with increases of 256% and 134% respectively. Non-food products accounted for 26% of the fair trade business in 2007 (€63 million) compared to 17% in 2004 (€17 million).

The textile segment is currently acting as a driving force for the whole sector. The textile turnover (clothing and home) reached €16.7 million in 2007, representing an increase of 745% compared to 2004. With 39% of sales, the clothing market came in first position among non-food segments, before tourism (30%).

The fair trade sector is a very dynamic one with 54% of the structure less than five years established and many start ups are found in the clothing sector.

Outlook

This trend towards sustainable development and ecology is not expected to fade out in the long term. In fact, it is reflected in all sectors of the economy and not just the clothing and footwear ones. Actions will be taken at all levels of society to promote a more ethical and greener planet. The tendency today is towards changes in behaviour.

The fair trade business now has a large notoriety being known by 82% of the French. Fair trade is perceived positively by 78% of the interviewed people and is clearly considered as useful for small producers for 54% of them.

Future impact

Ethical fashion can be described a niche market with a high growth potential, as demand is expected to keep growing. The success of the annual ethical fashion show is proof of this trend.

The TNS Secodip study showed that there were 960,000 new buyers between 2005 and 2006 and 230,000 the following year. In addition, average spending is increasing. The fair trade business will probably not suffer as much as other segments from the effects of the consumption crisis. First of all, typical buyers of ethical products have a higher disposable income than the average. In addition, parts of the reasons of purchase are linked with political and personal beliefs.

However, we can underline that there is a need to improve the transparency around the concept. In fact, consumers feel they are lacking some information regarding products, processes and pricing structures. There are also some difficulties linked with the definition of fair trade; in fact, many different labels and independent associations granting those labels coexist on the market. The capacity of the different sectors to reassure customers on these issues will be key to ensure the development of fair products sales in the medium-long term.

The fashion industry remains one of the most exploitative in the world, both to people and the environment. As a result, customers are increasingly interested in contributing to creating a more sustainable future for fashion. Ethical fashion is currently the fair trade business’ highest growth subsector among non-food segments and sales are expected to keep rising in the coming years. The ethical fashion products’ universe is increasing and diversifying itself and many young designers are expected to position themselves in this niche segment.

Growth of online clothing and footwear sales

Trend

The proliferation of the internet within French households is increasing at pace and are using it on a daily basis. In February 2008, France had 16.3 million broadband connections, of which 94% are ADSL subscribers. This makes France the second largest ADSL market in Europe.

E-commerce has also become increasingly popular amongst the French population. The price factor (especially for sportswear articles) and the convenience of shopping online are the main reasons for its continuing success.

Current impact

According to the online shopping federation, e-commerce is growing fast in France. In 2008, 21 million people had already made online purchases. The clothing industry is one of the fastest growth subsectors online. Indeed, according to the Benchmark Group, online clothing sales are increasing more rapidly than the average of all sectors (+33% for clothing and footwear in 2007 vs. +25% for the total). According to the IFM, online clothing sales increased by 31% in value between July 2007 and June 2008 and the internet accounted for 6.3% of total clothing and footwear sales in 2008, up from 2.9% in 2003. Traditionally catalogue based companies, La Redoute and Les 3 Suisses now make 60% and 40% of their turnover via the internet respectively.

However, they are facing increasing competition from “pure players” which only sell online and from specialised brands that have opened their own e-commerce site.

Private sales sites are also becoming more and more popular and they are growing very fast. A good example of this success would be Vente-privée.com which made a turnover of €250 million in 2006 with 14 million orders. Last December, they registered an average of 90,000 orders daily. We can also underline the good performance of multi-brands footwear online sites such as Spartoo and Sarenza which sold a combined total of 340,000 pairs in 2007. The inability to try items on and not being able to feel the quality and texture of a fabric were surprisingly not major deterrents to sales. Rich media has enabled many e-retailers to employ features such as zoom and rotation.

Outlook

Longer term growth is set to be driven by an ageing population. As today’s younger shoppers get older and their income and spending power increases, the amount they spend online is likely to increase. The internet will be seen as a normal way to buy goods, as this generation replaces one that is more predisposed to make purchases from physical shops.

However, this does not necessarily signal a death knell for physical stores. In fact, in many cases online and in-store sales channels will simply blur into one, becoming fully integrated. There is still a need for physical locations, but the number of stores required will vary according to sector. Having an internet presence is now vital and the combination of an in-store and online presence with strong links between the two is essential, giving the consumer choice by becoming multi-channelled is the key to success.

Future impact

All indications tell us the positive trend in online apparel sales will continue. Indeed, with internet access growing and users purchasing more frequently online, this strong growth is set to persist. The internet is widely perceived as a cheaper and easier way of finding lower prices and bargains in most sectors.

As the cost of broadband falls, consumers become accustomed to internet shopping and retailers continue to enhance online propositions, the channel will find itself extremely well placed to capitalise on falling consumer confidence and lower levels of disposable income currently impacting the retail market. Having an internet presence will be essential for retailers. In fact, they will have to give the consumer choice by establishing strong links between the in-store and the online offers as seen above. Sales are expected to continue rising regularly until 2013 (+0.5% points per year approximately).

Table of contents

CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR IN FRANCE : MARKET INSIGHT

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

2008 and the first effects of the crisis

The increase of sales and promotions

Towards a more ethical fashion

A concentrated distribution

Back to growth from 2010 onwards

The impact of the crisis on clothing and footwear sales

The growing share of sales and promotions

The potential of sportswear

Towards a more ethical fashion

Growth of online clothing and footwear sales

MARKET DATA

Table 1 Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: Volume 2003-2008

Table 2 Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: Value 2003-2008

Table 3 Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: % Volume Growth 2003-2008

Table 4 Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: % Value Growth 2003-2008

Table 5 Clothing and Footwear Company Shares 2004-2008

Table 6 Clothing and Footwear Brand Shares 2005-2008

Table 7 Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Distribution Format: % Analysis 2003-2008

Table 8 Forecast Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: Volume 2008-2013

Table 9 Forecast Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: Value 2008-2013

Table 10 Forecast Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: % Volume Growth 2008-2013

Table 11 Forecast Sales of Clothing and Footwear by Sector: % Value Growth 2008-2013

DEFINITIONS

Clothing

Footwear

Summary 1 Research Sources

LOCAL COMPANY PROFILES - FRANCE

BEAUMANOIR GROUP - CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR - FRANCE

STRATEGIC DIRECTION

KEY FACTS

Summary 2 Beaumanoir group: Key Facts

Summary 3 Beaumanoir group: Operational Indicators

COMPANY BACKGROUND

PRODUCTION

COMPETITIVE POSITIONING

GROUPE ROYER - CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR - FRANCE

STRATEGIC DIRECTION

KEY FACTS

Summary 4 Groupe Royer: Key Facts

Summary 5 Groupe Royer: Operational Indicators

COMPANY BACKGROUND

PRODUCTION

COMPETITIVE POSITIONING

MANGO FRANCE - CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR - FRANCE

STRATEGIC DIRECTION

KEY FACTS

Summary 6 MANGO France: Key Facts

Summary 7 MANGO SA: Operational Indicators

COMPANY BACKGROUND

PRODUCTION

COMPETITIVE POSITIONING

Summary 8 Mango France: Competitive Position 2008

VIVARTE SA - CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR - FRANCE

STRATEGIC DIRECTION

KEY FACTS

Summary 9 Vivarte SA: Key Facts

Summary 10 Vivarte SA: Operational Indicators

COMPANY BACKGROUND

PRODUCTION

COMPETITIVE POSITIONING

Summary 11 Vivarte SA: Competitive Position 2008

ZARA FRANCE - CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR - FRANCE

STRATEGIC DIRECTION

KEY FACTS

Summary 12 Zara France: Key Facts

Summary 13 Zara France: Operational Indicators

COMPANY BACKGROUND

PRODUCTION

COMPETITIVE POSITIONING

Summary 14 Zara France: Competitive Position 2006

CLOTHING IN FRANCE

HEADLINES

TRENDS

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

PROSPECTS

New Product Developments

Summary 15 New Product Launches 2007- 2009

SECTOR DATA

Table 12 Sales of Clothing by Subsector: Volume 2003-2008

Table 13 Sales of Clothing by Subsector: Value 2003-2008

Table 14 Sales of Clothing by Subsector: % Volume Growth 2003-2008

Table 15 Sales of Clothing by Subsector: % Value Growth 2003-2008

Table 16 Sales of Men’s Outerwear by Type 2003-2008

Table 17 Sales of Women’s Outerwear by Type 2003-2008

Table 18 Sales of Childrenswear by Type 2003-2008

Table 19 Clothing Company Shares 2004-2008

Table 20 Clothing Brand Shares 2005-2008

Table 21 Sales of Clothing by Distribution Format: % Analysis 2003-2008

Table 22 Forecast Sales of Clothing by Subsector: Volume 2008-2013

Table 23 Forecast Sales of Clothing by Subsector: Value 2008-2013

Table 24 Forecast Sales of Clothing by Subsector: % Volume Growth 2008-2013

Table 25 Forecast Sales of Clothing by Subsector: % Value Growth 2008-2013

FOOTWEAR IN FRANCE

HEADLINES

TRENDS

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

PROSPECTS

New Product Developments

Summary 16 New Product Launches 2007- 2009

SECTOR DATA

Table 26 Sales of Footwear by Subsector: Volume 2003-2008

Table 27 Sales of Footwear by Subsector: Value 2003-2008

Table 28 Sales of Footwear by Subsector: % Volume Growth 2003-2008

Table 29 Sales of Footwear by Subsector: % Value Growth 2003-2008

Table 30 Sales of Footwear by Type 2003-2008

Table 31 Footwear Company Shares 2004-2008

Table 32 Footwear Brand Shares 2005-2008

Table 33 Sales of Footwear by Distribution Format: % Analysis 2003-2008

Table 34 Forecast Sales of Footwear by Subsector: Volume 2008-2013

Table 35 Forecast Sales of Footwear by Subsector: Value 2008-2013

Table 36 Forecast Sales of Footwear by Subsector: % Volume Growth 2008-2013

Table 37 Forecast Sales of Footwear by Subsector: % Value Growth 2008-2013