From Plus-Size to Size-Inclusive Fashion

November 2019

Rising incidence of obesity and overweight across the world is acting as a catalyst for growth of plus-size fashion. Historically dismissed, plus-size fashion is gaining momentum with the rapid deployment of high street retailers and mainstream brands given this expanding customer base. The naivety of non-specialists has already caused serious marketing backlashes, highlighting the importance of well thought out strategies balancing effectively inclusivity and aspirational messages.

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Key Findings

Obesity and overweight are reaching pandemic proportions worldwide

Overweight and obesity - especially among children - have surged over the last decade, driven by over-consumption of high-calorie processed foods, and reduced physical activity. BMIs are highest in Qatar, Kuwait and the US in 2019. Governments are responding to the obesity crisis by implementing public health campaigns, sugar taxes, clearer food labelling and restrictions on the advertising of junk food. Yet, by 2030 it is expected that 28% of the world’s population will be overweight and 17% of these, obese.

North America and Gulf markets are key hot spots for plus-size fashion prospects

Significantly higher than average disposable income, obesity and overweight prevalence and per capita expenditure on fashion levels overlay in North America and in some of the more affluent markets in the Gulf region (eg Qatar, Kuwait and UAE). Despite maturity, these markets hold great potential over the forecast period for plus-size fashion given the strong appeal for trend-led (and high-end) fashion and the relatively underdeveloped plus-size retail offering available.

Plus-size road to mainstream is gaining momentum but luxury players still lag behind

Over the last couple of years, several high-profile retailers (especially in the US) have expanded their offerings and adapted their retail operations to better cater for plus-size consumers. Either launching new private label lines (EVRI by Kohl’s), via partnerships (adidas x Universal Standard) or through acquisitions (Eloquii by Walmart) size-inclusive initiatives are booming with the notable exception of luxury powerhouses, who still remain fairly dismissive in comparison.

The shift from plus to inclusive size requires better thought out strategies

After several marketing backlashes, fashion companies are gradually fine-tuning their approach to plus-size marketing, gradually moving towards body-positive and empowering territory. Despite the controversy around the role of fashion to tackle obesity, growing availability, visibility and normalisation should be further encouraged.

 

Scope
Key findings
Obesity rate rises in all regions…
…despite growing consumer concern…
…and growing policy measures
The intersection of plus-size and “plus expenditure”
Addressable market potential to 2023
From plus-size to inclusive-size
The road to mainstream
Celebrity endorsement turbocharges visibility and allure…
…but size snobbery persists in designer apparel
Plus-size remains a minefield…
...thanks to very unfortunate marketing choices
Opportunities beyond womenswear
“Controversy-free” strategies to succeed
Definitions

Apparel and Footwear

Apparel is the aggregation of clothing and footwear. This dataset covers retail sales of apparel through both store-based retailers and non-store retailers. Excludes black market sales (i.e. untaxed, generated within informal retailing)and duty free sales (travel retail). Items must be new when sold to the consumer; second-hand/used items are excluded. Antique and/or vintage clothing and footwear is also excluded.

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