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Skin Health: The Evolving Landscape of Dermocosmetics

October 2018

Growth in dermocosmetics highlights the increasing consumer preference for products positioned for prevention. Dermocosmetic products help alleviate certain conditions, have therapeutic benefits as well as protect/repair/prevent, and are suitable for sensitive skin. They have evolved to include holistic health and wellness benefits. This report analyses the evolution of dermocosmetics, the increasing competition between dermocosmetic brands and other skin care categories, and future prospects.

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Key Findings

Growth in the market for dermocosmetics highlights the growing consumer preference for products positioned for prevention

Consumers are well aware of the damage that external agents such as pollution, antibacterial soaps and detergents can cause to the long-term health of their skin. Beyond immediate considerations like fine line reduction and moisturisation, consumers are increasingly drawn to skin care products that go beyond traditional skin care and into prevention as well. What consumers want are products that help now and prevent more damage in the future.

Competition between established dermocosmetic brands and emerging beauty brands with a dermatologist positioning is intensifying, as more brands use claims that address skin issues

Skin care brands have always used claims of efficacy, but as health and wellness megatrends exert a greater influence on consumers, there has been a shift globally to beauty-focused skin care brands adopting more medicinal positioning. Brands outside the established dermocosmetic space are developing dermo-inspired lines, while dermatologist-founded brands leverage founding stories to demonstrate expertise to consumers.

A space still remains for medical dermatologicals that address specific skin conditions

All of this said, there still remains a space in skin care for products that are purely medical in nature, or that address a specific health condition such as psoriasis or eczema that is not really part of the same “dermocosmetic” space.

This category will continue to grow and spread into new markets, driven by both consumer demand and external factors

External agents that cause skin damage, such as pollution, are likely to increase in prevalence and intensity over the coming years, meaning that dermocosmetic products that purport to prevent against this damage will also continue to grow in popularity, as consumer preferences continue to shift towards healthy living and long-term skin care. This is a crucial space to watch.

Scope
Key finding
Healthy living underpins evolving consumer demands and preferences
Consumer preference shifting towards prevention
Health as a feature matters the most in skin care products
Lifestyle-oriented beauty and consumer trends drive skin care market
Prevention is echoed in growing health and beauty categories
Preventive health is a key driver of choice of skin care products
Highly sought-out skin care features closely tied to long-term skin health
Across all regions, consumers are more concerned about sensitive skin
Skin and hair purchases linked to key health benefits and motivations
Doctor recommendation remains among top influencers in skin care
The changing epidemiology of skin conditions affects dermocosmetics
Company activities highlight overlap of skin care and dermatologicals
Beauty, not OTC dermatological brands, are driving dermocosmetics
Therapeutic features will spur growth across a wider array of products
New product launches address long-term health and prevention…
…but also rely on ingredients to respond to new consumer preferences
Targeting specific demographics and skin issues are key to positioning
Mass takes on premium features through ingredients, technology
Emerging brands with medically-trained founders communicate expertise
Dermo-inspired products promote skin care claims
The growth of microbiome skin care propels “beauty from within”
Pollution evolves into a catch-all claim for stressors
These paths for innovation seem to work for some OTC brands
Not all categories of dermatologicals will move into dermocosmetics
Opportunities remain for movement towards dermocosmetics
Key factors set to boost demand for dermocosmetics
Dermocosmetic brands need to adopt a “holistic” approach to skin care
Hyper-pigmentation and discolouration claims increase
Newer acne treatment claims target adult acne
Women’s health is an area of growth for dermocosmetic brands
User-volunteered data is an entry level step for personalized solutions
Dispensers and big data characterise second tier of personalisation
DNA-based personalisation to identify skin deficiencies on the way
Will regulatory bodies step in to define the future of dermocosmetics ?
Dermocosmetics competes with other emerging tiers of skin care
Characteristics of dermocosmetics
Dermocosmetic brands emphasise technology and simple packaging

Beauty and Personal Care

This is the aggregation of baby and child-specific products, bath & shower, deodorants, hair care, colour cosmetics, men's grooming, oral hygiene, fragrances, skin care, depilatories and sun care. Black market sales and travel retail are excluded.

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